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Notes from the Editors of The Lipstick Page Forums: A Dedication to the Art of Beauty and Fashion.
Meet the Staff: The Sketchbook · Blog Home · Profile · MySpace · Contact Us · FAQ/TOS On This Page · Beauty Notes: Chanel No. 19 Review (again) · Most Wanted: Age of Innocence · Culture Notes: A Bit of a Rant · Beauty Notes: Hermès Hiris Review · Fashion Notes: Charlize Theron on the Cover of W · Closet Confidential: Lingerie & Loungewear · Fashion Looks: Indie Jewelry · Closet Confidential: Restart · Beauty Notes: Fantasy NARS Palette · Just Notes: This, that and the other 1 · Beauty Notes: Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman Review · It's Quite Easy Being Green Comments · May 17, 2008 3:08 PM by Colleen Shirazi · May 17, 2008 4:49 PM by Dain · May 16, 2008 6:45 PM by Perfumeshrine · May 17, 2008 3:08 AM by Dain · May 15, 2008 9:59 PM by Colleen Shirazi · May 15, 2008 10:37 PM by Dain · May 15, 2008 1:10 AM by Colleen Shirazi · May 15, 2008 1:17 AM by Dain · May 15, 2008 10:56 AM by kuri · May 15, 2008 12:45 PM by Dain · May 15, 2008 8:21 PM by kuri · May 14, 2008 11:22 PM by Carol · May 15, 2008 12:05 AM by Dain · May 12, 2008 4:22 PM by Colleen Shirazi · May 12, 2008 5:40 PM by Dain · May 12, 2008 7:57 PM by Joy Rothke · May 12, 2008 9:17 PM by Dain · May 12, 2008 10:08 PM by Colleen Shirazi · May 12, 2008 10:18 PM by Dain · May 12, 2008 10:32 PM by Dain · May 12, 2008 11:53 PM by Colleen Shirazi · May 12, 2008 8:59 PM by Dain · May 12, 2008 10:15 PM by Colleen Shirazi · May 12, 2008 10:23 PM by Dain · May 11, 2008 2:00 AM by Colleen Shirazi · May 11, 2008 2:03 AM by Dain · May 11, 2008 2:23 AM by Dain · May 11, 2008 2:55 AM by Colleen Shirazi · May 11, 2008 3:00 AM by Dain · May 11, 2008 2:02 PM by Colleen Shirazi · May 11, 2008 8:41 PM by Dain · May 11, 2008 10:52 PM by Colleen Shirazi · May 13, 2008 12:00 AM by Colleen Shirazi · May 14, 2008 8:20 PM by Dain Archives · Beauty Blog (2003-2004) · Fashion Blog (archive) · New Releases Blog (archive) · Beauty Articles (archive) · April 2005 · May 2005 · June 2005 · July 2005 · August 2005 · September 2005 · October 2005 · November 2005 · December 2005 · January 2006 · February 2006 · March 2006 · April 2006 · May 2006 · June 2006 · July 2006 · August 2006 · September 2006 · October 2006 · November 2006 · December 2006 · January 2007 · February 2007 · March 2007 · April 2007 · May 2007 · June 2007 · July 2007 · August 2007 · September 2007 · October 2007 · November 2007 · December 2007 · January 2008 · February 2008 · March 2008 · April 2008 · May 2008
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Beauty Notes: Chanel No. 19 Review (again) Posted by Dain, Saturday, May 17, 2008 12:14 AM (Eastern) I am sometimes taken aback by the exquisite cruelty of No. 19. Perfumes are like people, or, to be more specific, like potential mates: the majority are blandly nice, some are charming teases (popular but without depth), and a few are downright repellent. As in life, truly exceptional perfumes are rare; who can explain why we love? You'll have to forgive the revisitation, but, along with Tabac Blond from the house of Caron and Mitsouko from the house of Guerlain, No. 19 is one of those rare individuals. If pressed, I'd wager that each is the very best offering from these revered houses, though not necessarily the most iconic or wearable iterations. The basis of my reasoning is rather obscure, as they smell rather unlike (in spite of the chypre connection): I find them utterly dignified. They may not allure from the first—indeed, most people find them somewhat difficult "to get to know", and it must be admitted I cannot pull off Tabac Blond—but it takes depth and complexity in a character to hold you fast in fascination for all life. It is rather like when you meet someone who is supremely confident. They don't need to impress, you'll come back, and if you are too insipid to realize what you have seen, it is you who are the poorer. No. 19 makes me feel slightly gauche and uncertain; I never feel like I completely understand what she means. Like any exceptional perfume, you'll not perceive all its facets from a haphazard dab on the wrist. Like Henri Robert's other great contribution to Chanel (Cristalle), it has a sort of brittle reserve that distinguishes it from many a lushly self-indulgent banality. By 1970, aldehydic florals were surely par for the course, thanks to No. 19's more glamorous cousin No. 5, but here Robert takes the house signature and spins it into hyperbole. Aldehydes are more textural abstraction than naturalistic aromatic, so the effect, with chlorine galbanum as reinforcement, feels rather like wandering a subterranean garden cut from crystal (do you hope to pluck this dusky jewel?). For me, the drama tends to vacillate between salty-soprano white rose and peppery-earthy iris, while lily of the valley runs through the composition like a river of mercury, before pooling into the subtly leathery vetiver base. If you're looking for rooty, metallic iris par excellence, the EDT is an excellent place to start, but I personally prefer the parfum, in which the delicacy and the crucial structural elements (iris, galbanum, aldehydes) are maintained, but the floral bouquet is richer and more pronounced—I still think of it as a rose perfume. Death by poison. To wear No. 19 is to sally forth to battle. And to take no prisoners. Labels: beauty notes, chanel, perfume reviews Most Wanted: Age of Innocence Posted by Dain, Friday, May 16, 2008 12:20 AM (Eastern) Modernity is a slippery term, depends on whom you ask. But the Belle Epoque, for all its dinosaurian values, is marked by considerably less self-conscious agony than our current century. This week, I was inspired by romantic Victoriana, with an eye for modernity's wearability. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() LISTEN I have a special fondness for Debussy's violin sonata. I particularly admire Oistrakh's soft, smooth performance; it's just marvelously judged for such an emotional piece (a lesser violinist might have given into theatricality). READ What else but Alice in Wonderland, Lewis Carroll's troubled lyrical masterpiece? Periods of conservatism are marked by escapist art, and Alice is such a prime example. Labels: guerlain, les prairies des paris, mischen, most wanted, nars
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Culture Notes: A Bit of a Rant Posted by Joy Rothke, Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:15 PM (Eastern) ![]() I've been reading "women's magazines" since JFK was in office. I worked my way through long-gone titles like American Girl and Ingenue; Teen, Seventeen, Mademoiselle, Glamour; their big sisters Vogue and Harper's Bazaar (and their British and Canadian counterparts); Marie-Claire, Elle, Cosmopolitan, Lear's, Mirabella, More and Allure. I've probably forgotten several, but no matter. Page for page, issue for issue, they publish the same stuff month in and month out, year after year. One of the Jezebel bloggers called them "insecurity factories." I wish I'd said that. Because they are--for all the surface feminism, empowerment, hipness, sexual freedom and 50 is the new 30--giant insecurity factories. Advertising-driven insecurity factories masquerading in journalism. Decade after decade, generations of females buy into it, then spend years trying to recover. And I know this because they're already congratulating each other over the amazing achievement of a "plus- sized" model winning the cheezefest called "America's Next Top Model." If Whitney Thompson is plus-sized at size 10, what does that make me or you? Labels: models
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Beauty Notes: Hermès Hiris Review Posted by Dain, 12:06 AM (Eastern) Though the showy tuberose was my first entry into florals, the iris is without a doubt my favorite flower, a mistress of subtleties: refined, thoughtful, and quietly sensuous—still waters run deep. Because of its density, it sinks down amongst the base notes, adding a characteristic suppleness to the drydown. An iris-centric perfume is never really loud and lighthearted; they tend to be austere, serious, and perhaps a little introverted. When combined with vetiver, it takes on an earthy, vegetal quality that you'll encounter in Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist and the EDT of Chanel No. 19, the olfactory equivalent of spider's silk, ethereal but strong. (Lovely if it works for you, but to me it smells like peppery mirepoix.) When it hangs around a resinous, leathery base, as in Parfumerie Generale Iris Taïzo, Dior Homme, Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman, and Guerlain Vol de Nuit, it becomes a suave, silky-voiced thing. The iris is not a particularly flowery aroma (it's extracted from the roots), so Hiris took me by surprise. This smells more or less like Montale Sunset Flowers—less substantial, more synthetic laundry musks, and much, much cheaper and widely available. It is carefree and picnicky and youthful, with rather a lot of orange blossom, all cleaned up by a PR crew for the floral-wearing public. If I hadn't known it was Hermès and Olivia Giacobetti and iris I wouldn't have glanced at it twice, when the textural elegance of Narciso Rodriguez does it so much better. My opinion is certainly colored by my hypersensitivity to soap and sweet, which automatically registers as a bland-floral-fresh thing, but all the same I find it rather spiritless. Were I looking for a fresh, unobtrusive iris scent that's neither rooty nor deep, Prada Infusion d'Iris would be far better. Labels: beauty notes, hermes, perfume reviews
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Fashion Notes: Charlize Theron on the Cover of W Posted by Dain, Wednesday, May 14, 2008 5:41 PM (Eastern) ![]() What a great color on a blonde (DKNY). Charlize Theron doesn't look half bad either. =P Labels: fashion notes, w
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Closet Confidential: Lingerie & Loungewear Posted by Dain, 12:01 AM (Eastern) I'll admit to a great weakness for fine lingerie; it's just about the only place you'll find real, honest-to-goodness lace. It may be the height of frivolity to pay hundreds of dollars for a few grams of silk that no one will see, but I've always been better at spending my money than saving it. It's all about the hedonism (and I'm still too young to spend it on anything other than myself). So far I've
For a fun little set, I love the simplicity and sensuousness of this Carine Gilson bra ($290), talk about white heat, no? And yet it seems exceedingly comfortable. I probably wouldn't bother to wear the corresponding thong, but for a night of romping, you can't get more elegant, erotic, frivolous, or witty than Strumpet & Pink's Hunting Through the Ruffles ($360), with its cleverly concealed opening. ![]() I do need a new chemise, but do I really one as expensive as this gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous royal blue number from Carine Gilson($898)? I reason with myself that there's absolutely nothing like it, and in any case it's way cheaper than a couture gown. Maybe with my first paycheck. ![]() Another possibility: ![]() Labels: carine gilson, closet confidential, minnie rose, strumpet and pink
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Fashion Looks: Indie Jewelry Posted by Joy Rothke, Tuesday, May 13, 2008 1:06 AM (Eastern) I don't like my jewelry to look like everyone else's. I want it to be unique, but not like the kind of stuff I used to call "UNICEF store"--i.e., thick, heavy, graceless, folkloric. I prefer more delicate pieces, but I can be a bit of a klutz, and have been known to snag delicate chains on my collar or drop brittle stones on tile floors. (A beautiful turquoise pendant I received as a birthday present met its end that way.) Other than liking delicacy, I don't have too many jewelry rules. I mix gold and silver and platinum, precious and semi-precious stones, with abandon. Actually, I don't own any precious stones, unless you count the tiny sapphire on the stem of Baume et Mercier watch I bought about 20 years ago, and haven't worn for at least a decade. (It's one of a number of purchases I've filed under "WTF Was I Thinking?") Usually, I'm slow to make a purchase. I've been thinking about buying one of Andrea Sher's Superhero necklaces for about five years There's a model named "Joy", but I've always favored the blue and green "Grass & Sky" necklace ($99). ![]() I encountered Esther Winter's three-tier silver disc earrings (CDN $32) on my first visit to the Klondike last year. I admired them in the tiny Dawson City gift shop, but couldn't decide. When I returned five months later for the annual music festival, I snatched them up. They're available in 32 Canadian images, such as a howling wolf (my choice), as well as the Aurora Borealis, buffalo, harvest moon, Inukshuk, loon, and a maple leaf. I don't wear them very often, but when I do, they remind me of the Yukon, my favorite place on earth. ![]() I also love Scotland and all things Celtic, and happened upon this ring ($92.00) from the Orkney Islands via the Stones list (Paleolithic piles, not the Rolling). It comes from Aurora Jewellery, where they handcraft a variety of pieces using traditional Orkney symbols; my ring is from the Ring of Brodgar collection--an Orkney stone circle. It includes a small moonstone, a stone reputed to provide safety to travelers. ![]() I'm really not in the market for anything else--except for, perhaps, a scarab bracelet. I got one in college and worn it for decades, then lost it about six or seven years ago. I'm willing to wait to find just the right one. Labels: aurora, superhero designs, winterchild Closet Confidential: Restart Posted by Dain, 12:09 AM (Eastern) You may have noticed I don't blog much about makeup any more. I've settled. More or less, my stash has reached a point where it doesn't require much editing. So, I have turned my attention to my wardrobes, both clothing and perfume—yes, yes, I am anal, but "it gives [me] a sense of control in a world full of chaos" (Clueless). The Mnemonic Sense chronicles my attempts to make sense of the mad world of perfumery, and this, Closet Confidential, is all about getting my closet in order. As I explain in the Introduction, my mission is "a wardrobe so intensely minimal that it will fit in a single (but generous) piece of luggage, impeccably chosen for seamless mixing and matching, yet is completely expressive. A high order, but why not?" It is based on the premise that one approaches a wardrobe more intelligently for travel—at least I do, because I hate dragging around heavy luggage—but progress has been slow, because unlike perfumes, you can't sample clothing. All the same, I'm hoping that once I'm through, I'm through, as I have become largely insusceptible to trends. So far, it has been a thought experiment, and I'd gotten as far as tees and knits, but fantasy has now turned to reality: in a few months, I may be headed over to Korea to teach. I really must reckon with myself in earnest, how much clothing can I really live with? So, if you do not mind, I am going to wipe the slate clean. An entire wardrobe, to fit into that berry American Apparel Weekender Duffle Bag ($32). Alternatively, I'd be the coolest of all backpackers with this convertible bag from Alexandra Cassaniti ($320), but I object to the expense and the size (3264 cubic inches: I'm not minimalist enough for that—a week I could manage, but not a year): ![]() ![]() Let the games begin (again). I'm thinking these will be the main categories, which are more or less divided by function, but are subject to edits, as it's a work in progress:
pants & skirts tees & knits blouses & buttondowns sweaters layers dresses coats bags shoes jewelry beauty other Labels: alexandra cassaniti, american apparel, closet confidential Beauty Notes: Fantasy NARS Palette Posted by Dain, Monday, May 12, 2008 3:22 PM (Eastern) I've got a real thing for NARS. It's the closest you can come to an artist's pigments in the cosmetic world. Nothing is more satisfying than to array your duos before your feasting eyes. I have never been particularly enthusiastic about the palettes, however. It is difficult to select five shade for a quint, much less ten. There's always a color that's entirely useless or redundant. It was a stroke of genius on Trish McEvoy's part to offer customizable palettes, and Bobbi Brown has followed suit. Though these are both excellent lines, they don't equal the colorwise brilliance of François Nars—you may not realize how precisely each shade has been calibrated, but there's a reason why there are no fans quite like NARS fans. If NARS offered a customizable palette, which shades would you choose? Four shadows, two blushes, and four lipcolors.Oddly enough, I didn't favor my favorites; I'd rather try something new, something I've always meant to try. It was difficult to choose eyeshadows—there are so many I love!—but I think these four could service me quite handsomely. One needed to be a light wash to open up the eye, and one had to be a dark, rich color that would function as a liner: I chose Tokyo (II), a silvery lilac nacre, and Underworld (II), a steely teal blue. They're tied together by a grey undertone, but they'd be versatile because they've got some complexity. Tokyo has a pleasing opalescence that's half grey and half purple (so you could use it as either, as it suits you), while Underworld has a tinge of green that won't alienate it from warmer shades (and I reason it is easier to use than either Cleo or Night Flight). The other two provide contrast: Cyprus' earthy subdued champagne gold and Rated R (II), a pink-flecked, gold-flecked hazy chartreuse. Gold is a subtle countpoint to the cool tones of either Tokyo or Underworld, and Cyprus is such a soft. And Rated R is indeed a favorite: people don't realize how wearable lime is, I think. One light, one dark, one soft contrast, one bright: you'll notice each shade works with the others in every imaginable combination. I did consider a lilac, but I still like my Chanel Lavande best. The blushes were easy. In spite of the very great furor that surrounds the sparkly NARS blushes, notably Orgasm and Sin, my very favorite is Desire, a bright pink just a hair cool. It pretty much goes with everything else I use. But since I had to choose a second, the Malibu Multiple would do very well: a dusty mauve that appears as a healthy, sunkissed glow rather than blushy blush. Since I do have a couple of bright-ass lipsticks, it wouldn't hurt to have a subtle blush, and I'd probably never buy it on its own. The lips were also difficult, but not because I had too many choices, but rather too few. I live on NARS Gothika, which, as a lip gloss, wouldn't be a choice for the palette, and alternate with Shu Uemura 270 for drama. I am also not as familiar with the lipsticks. So my choices are somewhat conservative: Eros is a sunny peach-rose-bronze that makes a great easy, glossy lip and Flair is a supremely wearable redcurrant shimmer, two shades I do own. Scarlet Empress and Schiap, on the other hand, are colors I've always wanted but never bought, a deep blue red and a heart-stopping fuschia. The lipcolors, I might add, work excellently with the shadows. Labels: nars
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Just Notes: This, that and the other 1 Posted by Colleen Shirazi, 12:00 AM (Eastern) So...I had an interesting weekend, and I hope you did too. I got this killer dress from a consignment shop. Quintessential late 80's/early 90's, new with tags, and fitted out with linebacker shoulder pads and little elastic "belt" in the back. A cool Indian design; this type of clothing had always been made in India before the apparel market began to drown in Chinese-made goods. The dress was fashioned entirely of a creamy ivory lace, with a built-in sheer dress underneath it. Went home, snipped out the shoulder pads...the built-in sheer dress was attached to the lace overlay by the same stitching, so of course it came out. I'm sewing-challenged but have never minded mending, so I sewed it back together, and discovered a hole in the lace overlay (don't ask me how a new dress already had a hole in it). At first I wanted to do a fancy darning thing with ivory thread but ended up simply sewing the hole shut, as it showed less that way. With the genius of the dress design, the hole barely showed even when it was open (the bottom of the dress is an intricate design of pieces of lace sewn together to create a small froth). While I was doing that, I found a hole in the built-in sheer dress, near the bottom in the side seam. It looked as if someone had cut a tag out using pinking shears. Jeesh! What's wrong with people. I sewed that one shut as well, and though the dress was clearly marked "dry clean only," I washed it in the machine (cold water, delicate cycle, Woolite). I can hardly wait to wear it, though I am pondering whether it's too ornate to wear to work. Shoes...I trekked out to one of the shops around here that carries Cydwoqs, Rabat in Berkeley. Hm. This was the first time I'd been to Rabat, and I'll have to admit I was disappointed. Instead of a wide selection of Cydwoqs, they had something like three kinds of the shoes, and maybe three or four kinds of the sandals. I wasn't interested in sandals; of the minute choice of shoes, they had Sprint, Force, and another which I don't recognize on the Cydwoq site. Force was kind of neat. The model they had on the floor was the exact color I wanted...a brown so dark it looked black at first, so could be worn as a black shoe, or as a brown one. But...if you expect someone to pay upward of $300 for shoes, you really should have more of a selection on hand. However you look at it, it's a lot of money. So I didn't buy. The only other standout there was Salpy, another American-made shoe even spendier than the Cydwoqs, but with two amazing leathers...dark shoes with designs traced in gold. I'll probably get out to Nordstrom next weekend, since I need the shoes now. I'm fairly sure Cydwoqs go on sale seasonally (I've seen their boots on sale online now), so it might be a matter of waiting for a better price. Labels: cydwoq, just notes, retro, shoes
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Beauty Notes: Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman Review Posted by Dain, Sunday, May 11, 2008 12:12 AM (Eastern) ![]() The Unicorn in Captivity (1495-1505). I sometimes find the inclination for exoticism in contemporary niche perfumery, like oud or fig or burnt rubber, slightly contemptible. I find it is a strategy not unlike when movies use sex and violence in place of plot. So like any jaded sample whore, I approached hyped-up Ormonde Woman with not a little suspicion—come on, hemlock? I am delighted to tell you, Ormonde Woman is wonderful. I am generally averse to violet's sugary preciousness, even in the masterful Bois de Violette, but the way its daintiness offsets something as sinister as black hemlock, the poison the condemned Socrates drank, ah, it broods and bewitches all at once. I've never smelled anything like it—a Scandanavian spring, wild violets under the damp shade of an evergreen forest—the rare bittersweet. Around the core interaction of magical violet and mysterious hemlock, soft accents embroider the surrounds and fill in the blank spaces: a subtle spice-herb accord of cardamom, coriander, and grass, and a softly earthy-resinous drydown of vetiver, sandalwood, amber, and cedar. Sounds like a lot, but it isn't. Ormonde Woman reads like a fairytale, as they really were, the kind where the babes in the wood die and the prince rapes sleeping beauty and Hans the Hedgehog is shoved behind a stove for years because his parents are ashamed of him. If it weren't so expensive to obtain from London (international shipping and a 1.989 exchange rate), and I hadn't found a similarly narcotic capacity in my bottle Vol de Nuit parfum, I'd be all over a bottle. Labels: beauty notes, ormonde jayne, perfume reviews
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May 17, 2008 3:08 PM,
He wrote that song for a black woman...the "dusky jewel."
Chanel is pretty good, I wish I could wear their stuff without developing a rash. mumbles...
May 17, 2008 4:49 PM,
I do tend to think of Hitchcock blondes when it comes to No. 19, but someone like Naomi Campbell would definitely give them all a run for their money, so it probably still works. : )
Aww... I forgot about your Chanel allergy! I thought you might enjoy this one, especially since you like No. 5 and the AG Heure Exquise.