Just keep in mind that this page will change with time. Holy grails are ongoing. I haven't found them all, obviously.
Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat $35: Horrendously expensive, but the most absolutely genius product ever. You'd think the $35 goes into packaging, but I've never met a concealer that performs like it—possibly because it's not a concealer after all, but a highlighter and illuminator. It melts away dark circles, so long as they're mild. It doesn't have a lot of coverage, as it was never meant to conceal. As far as I'm concerned, the lack of coverage is not a problem, but a benefit, because it's rendered supereasy to blend and absolutely undetectable. It just makes me look fantastically awake—and my sleeping habits are absolutely abhorrent. If there were an alternative, I'd snap it up in a second, but there isn't. Not for any lack of trying; there are plenty of wannabe Touche Éclats on the market.
Cetaphil $4-$12: The tried and true. I sometimes get bored and wander away to try something else, but I'm immediately punished because it never works as well. When I return to it, gloriously mundane and drugstore as it is, I'm welcomed back, like the prodigal son. And it clears up whatever skin problems immediately, and I wonder why I ever strayed. It's not the best makeup remover, that is true, but I wear little makeup so it's never been an issue.
Delux Norris Lip Gloss $15: Ever since Jane Loco Cocoa has been discontinued, I've been on the search for an alternative. Enter the ever-vaunted Delux Norris. It's got the perfect consistency, comes in a miniature tube (yet still contains more product than a MAC Lipglass), has no scent, and a myriad of beautiful colors. Norris is the favorite among the bunch, and it's my favorite too. It doesn't look like Loco Cocoa, but it's got that same, lovely, complex quality that I love. It's a rose-red flecked with gold shimmer—a currant, in short. It's brilliant, and beautiful, and my new favorite. I've even used up a tube already, an astonishing achievement.
Givenchy Organza Indécence perfume: This is favorite scent of all time. Before I bought it, I would sneak into Sephora and spray into my hair, furtively, and wander around smelling like a goddess all day. Afterwards, I'd just return to the shirt I'd worn that day just to sniff its essence. It's not a scent of the weak, or for the floral-lover. It hits you first with cinnamon, which is quickly mellowed over by vanilla, though it’s underlaid by the jacaranda wood, which is similar to rosewood (the scent is similar to a less earthy sandalwood). The vanilla becomes soft, like vanilla ice cream, but still has “bite”, because of that woody note. Some floral—it’s nearly impossible to pick out—softens it. And a fruity note like a syrupy, honeyed plum that dissipates over time. The ingredients are supposedly heavily spicy, with patchouli (which is too spicy for me straight), but honestly, the vanilla-jacaranda wood mix overpowers them all. This is the scent people like best on me. The bottle is very glamorous, though not exactly my taste. Just as a tip, you can find discounted bottles of this at TJMaxx, for like $25 for a full-size bottle.
L'Oréal Féria Hair Color $9.99: Absolutely the best home haircoloring product. It's very easy to use (fairly clutzproof), and the color it leaves is so rich and lustrous, not to mention very shiny. The conditioner that comes with it is excellent as well. I use it sporadically as a deep conditioner.
Nars Istanbul Eye Liner Pencil $18: Nars certainly has a genius for making products that look ever so godawful in the packaging, but exceptionally flattering on. This is a chalky, matte, periwinkle blue. I'm pretty sure it's been renamed from "Blue Lotus", which I first saw on Maggie Rizer--a strawberry blonde with blue eyes and deeply tanned and freckled skin--as far from my coloring as you can get, so I never thought to look into it. But on a whim while wandering Saks, I put this on and... amazing. Chic, ethereal, and somehow, incredibly, defining. It actually is a more flattering shade than regular ole brown, if you'll believe me. I'm somehow convinced that it isn't coloring that determines whether you can wear this, but facial structure. Everyone I've tried this one who looks good in it has feminine, delicate bone structure. It's about a certain attitude, rather than matching other colors or coloring. It looks better if you line your bottom lashes.
Urban Decay X Eye Shadow $15: I've been searching for THE perfect champagne for an eternity. It had to be a soft, mellow base, warm, exactly light-medium, with flecks of gold shimmer. X is a pink-gold holographic frost, equally of both, and has filled that role with perfection and ease. This evolution happened thus: I was in Sephora, fooling around with champagne eyeshadows (I never did exactly find the perfect one, though I think Stila Oasis was the final candidate). I put one of the Smashbox champagnes on my lid, and asked my friend C. for an opinion. She didn't much approve of it, though she certainly was diametrically opposed to it on moral grounds or anything. A little while later, I applied the X on a whim (without seriously considering it), and when she saw me she changed her mind and said she did like it after all, not knowing that she was talking about a completely different shade—in the pot. It then occurred to me then and there that this pink-gold was rather like an evolution on champagne-gold, and it was special and pretty as I had been looking for all my life (or at least, for several years).
Neutrogena Flirt Lip Gloss $7: I really adore the formula: somewhere between sticky and slippery, just the perfect consistency. I'm not sure how I ended up purchasing this, because it's definitely not the sort of color I would have selected. It's a sort of raspberry pink, no shimmer (it goes on sheerer than it appears in the tube). Very boring to recount. But on your lips, it's this lovely fresh, pretty pink. It's bright, yet not. It's hard to describe the effect. I'm not sure how this product does it... perhaps it's because it mixes with my skin tone and hair color, but it actually seems to make my eyes seem brighter and more open, my skin creamier. It's feminine, but not so that it's sugary and flighty. It's the sort of color that a guy would be attracted to, but it can hold its own without the male sex. Anyway,seven bucks, you can't beat that. It's become my everyday color; I reserve my Delux Norris for special occasions.
Shiseido Ultra Light Sun Block Lotion SPF 30 $29.50: It comes in a very strange teal container with an orange cap. It smells like flowers, not chemicals. It's broad-spectrum (titanium dioxide), and like milk. Really, it's as liquid as milk. On the skin, it's like a face oil. It doesn't clog my pores, and the oils in it help hydrate. It's perfect for me because it doesn't evaporate and leave my parched like some do, but it's so very light that it doesn't grease up on me.
Nars Desire Blush $20: I used to be a diehard fanatic of MAC Angel, which is actually quite the same color as this product, just severely watered down (swatched them both and they really are quite similar). But I've grown paler over the years, and I have been cursed as someone who has no natural color at all, and an inability to blush. You'd think getting paler would naturally result in an increasingly inconspicuous blush, but no. This is the most horrendous looking blush in the world--in the pan. It's a bright, pure hot pink, slightly on the cool side. But a sheer dusting (using a really soft brush like Paula Dorf Baby Cheeks) is so stunning, so fresh, that it's the one and only product that I never leave home without applying. And... just as a bonus, it's Nars. I love everything about it, from the uberchic packaging to the tightly-pressed powder.
MAC Powersurge Eye Kohl $15: This is a shade similar to Stila Holly Go Lightly... same bronze flecked with gold, but with more flecks of gold, and no olive undertone. Like the Stila, it's a neutral shade that looks good on anyone, so in a way, it's understated. But the gold... it looks lovely smudgily and thickly applied with black mascara... the gold peeks out between your lashes. So decadent, but in a very restrained, refined way. It's just the sort of thing to pair with a cocktail dress and high heels.
Revlon Colorstay Nail Polish, Ultimate Wine $7: There is no color in nail polish like pure, rich red. Like lipstick. But not everyone has the inclination, or style, that promotes the wearing of red lipstick. Nail polish is much more wearable, especially on your toes. but I mention this product, not to rave about the color, but to rave about how long it lasts. It's really, really remarkable. It NEVER chips. Not unless you actually resort to violence and try to pick it off. I find that it's so long lasting that it only comes off until I have to take it off because my nails have grown too much. It comes with a very nice, shiny topcoat that works well with other nail polish formulas too, albeit not as well.
Jane Loco Cocoa Lipstick (discontinued): Possibly *the* universal lipstick shade. Unlike Clinique Black Honey or MAC Twig, it's exuberantly complex. "Burnished rose" doesn't even begin to describe it. It has a dry, almost powdery texture, which I personally don't mind in the least. It's not *that* dry. It just doesn't feel like you have lipstick on, which to me, is a good thing. It has just enough brown not to be bright, but isn't boringly neutral. Not true shimmer, but rather iridescence. Infused with hints of peach and plum. A sheer application brings out its peachier, brownish side, like your lips, but better. A heavier coat is plummier, more shimmer, brighter. It's difficult to describe a shade such as this, because it nevers goes to any extreme, and that makes it a truly versatile color. As a matter of fact, if you put on clear lipgloss on top, it looks different from putting on clear lip balm. You're not adding any color, but there's difference nonetheless. Just imagine what you can do with colored lipglosses and lipliners. I've heard rumors about its discontinuation. I am going to throw a fit should that happen. It's my one, cannot-life-without lipstick, after all. Since its discontinuance, I've looked high and low for a replacement: Smashbox Raspberry Kreme, L'Oréal Berry Bronze Shine Delice, MAC 3D, Stila Luce, Neutrogena Whisper Rpse, but nothing compares.
Jane Purple Heart Eyeshadow (discontinued): It's a deep, iridescent amethyst, or smooth violet the shade of dusk. Looks garish in the pot, but goes on sheerer, almost grayed. One could say that it is a cool shade, but it's actually very neutral. Actually, universal. I can't imagine anyone, of any eye color, skin tone or hair color, not being able to wear this. I've personally put it on people of widely differing coloring and Purple Heart has magically morphed into perfection on all of them. I imagine it's the gray. It's as neutral as charcoal, but has a definite "kick" to it. It's just about the PERFECT smoky eye look for anyone. Too bad it's discontinued, and I've searched all over for an alternative, but there isn't a perfect match. All other similar colors are bit too pure a purple; they don't have that lovely gray undertone that cuts beneath the purple that makes Purple Heart so gloriously universal. But Prescriptives Softlining Pencil is the best match I've seen, so you might want to try it out. Saturday, September 18, 2004 »0 comments
Perfume Favorites
I don’t usually spray perfume on my skin, where I find it distracting, but into my hair, where it lasts longer and mixes more readily with my own natural scent. My taste in perfumes tends towards sweet and heady scents; they tend to be potent, so take my approbations with due warning. My favorite fragrances tend to have that heady, sweet base, usually something like vanilla and amber, with different notes predominating. They’re not “wussy” scents, in that the sweetness isn’t sugary, but warmer, mellower, and slightly spicy. I don’t wear florals, true orientals, citruses, or fruits very well—they have a tendency to smell either overpowering or fake. I assume that my body chemistry is responsible for this, because the scents I do wear would be overwhelming on most people, but are lovely and mellow on me. As an experiment, I’ve sprayed one wrist with rose, and the other with amber, and asked people to sniff the rose: “Mmm… lovely. I like it.” Then the amber: “Wow,” with widening eyes, “That’s much better.”
Notes I like: vanilla, amber, sandalwood, anise, coriander, violet, rose (not tea rose, which makes me gag), carnation, lavender, gardenia, most citrus notes (including pomegranate and cranberry, which smell more citrusy to me). I don’t like fruits at all, for much the same reason that I don’t like most florals; in fact, the distortion is even worse with fruits as far as I’m concerned—like candy, and sour in the worst possible way.
My favorite perfumes are as follow: Givenchy Organza Indécence is my straight vanilla scent. It hits you first with cinnamon, which is quickly mellowed over by vanilla, though it’s underlaid by the jacaranda wood, which is similar to rosewood (the scent is similar to a less earthy sandalwood). The vanilla becomes soft, like vanilla ice cream, but still has “bite”, because of that woody note. Some floral—it’s nearly impossible to pick out—softens it. And a fruity note like a syrupy, honeyed plum that dissipates over time. The ingredients are supposedly heavily spicy, with patchouli (which is too spicy for me straight), but honestly, the vanilla-jacaranda wood mix overpowers them all. This is the scent people like best on me. The bottle is very glamorous, though not exactly my taste.
My “amber” scent is L’Occitane Amber (from the very reasonably priced Jardins de L’Occitane Eau de Toilettes. The Neroli Rose and Linden are fantastic as well.), which is very simply a powerful mix of amber with vanilla. It’s spicier than the Indécence, which is comparatively milky and sandalwood-y. Absolutely intoxicating. It smells like golden sunlight filtering into a dusty library on a winter afternoon. Or a night on the town. Or India. Or incense. As for the bottle, it looks very holistic and antique-y, which appeals to me.
Lolita Lempicka is next on my list. Initially, it begins crisp and green, possibly something like lemons, then very quickly mellows down into something very sweet. Even though it is a predominantly sweet fragrance (vanilla-ish), it has an herbal spice to it, which is obviously the aniseed, giving it licorice-like tones. Next to the Indécence, it smells predominantly of violets, though, as I’ve mentioned, it does have a vanilla undercurrent. It looks spectacular on your vanity counter, as far as the bottle goes. Try the EDT, if you find the EDP too strong for you, though it smells is slightly different—much lighter.< This perfume only comes second after Indécence on my list of favorites.
Donna Karan Black Cashmere is not a scent I can wear often, but on occasion, I want a heavy, knock-‘em-dead scent. A perfume that really feels like I’m wearing perfume (as if my other picks aren’t strong enough), the way red lipstick makes me feel as I’m wearing lipstick. I’m not all too familiar with these notes, as this is a true oriental (the copy says: Saffron, Patchouli Singapour, Red Marechal Rose, Clove, White Pepper, and African Wengue Wood). It smells like patchouli, pepper, and saffron. Yes, it does have sweetness, but it’s mostly just spice, this does not have an amber-vanilla base. What I like about it is that it smells like incense, like the inside of a Catholic cathedral. There’s something very solemn about it. It does have a lovely name, and the packaging, while a bit boring, is very reminiscent of Donna Karan’s clothing. As I have mentioned, this is an “occasion” scent, for me.
I like Gucci Rush, because it’s not like any other scent out there, and yet it reminds me of my other amber-vanilla scents. The composition is a lot like Lolita Lempicka, and both sort of emphasize themselves as “fantasy” scents. If ever there was a fragrance that outright smelled like sex, this is it. Sephora calls it “euphoric and intoxicating”, and that’s just right on the money. To me, this has a lot of gardenia and vanilla, but it has a coriander element to it, which is why I like it so much. Very minimalist packaging, but a vibrant color—a bit boring, if you ask me.
I’m still looking for a rose and a carnation scent with that amber-vanilla base, though I suppose I could always layer. But somehow a “complete” perfume appeals to me… so the search goes on. Saturday, March 08, 2003 »0 comments
Minimalism
Suppose we all had free rein on our acquisitional habits. It would be havoc, chaos! Can you imagine the pack-ratting, the hoarding? Every purse would be bursting with nearly identical pink-brown lipsticks, every sink shuddering under the weight of $100 face creams, every makeup drawer saturated with an assemblage of brightly packaged, but utterly useless products. Oh wait, is that you? [frowns disapprovingly] You really should control yourself, you know.
Let me get something straight here. Minimalism does NOT necessarily equal frugality. If anything, expensive products have more justification in a minimalist's stash than a maximalist's. After all, when you only own one fragrance, surely you can afford to be extravagant, it's not like you're buying a horde of them. Some of us aren't comfortable with, well, only ten lipsticks, much less just one. That's ok too. Minimalism, after all, is subjective. The idea is to pare down your collection so you don't have any wanton products with no use. You know better than I of what you need.
Suppose I had a frivolous stash. Being of a minimalist nature, it might not be overly impressive, perhaps. Nonetheless, if I bought everything that appealed to me, it'd be overwhelming. Furthermore, I doubt that I'd be satisfied. With so many products, it would be extremely difficult to make sure that every shade is perfect beyond imagining. If I unleashed all restrictions on my eyeshadow consumption; it would be boundless, I have no doubt of it. I'd buy out Sonia Kashuk, MAC, Nars, Smashbox, Paula Dorf, Versace, Cargo, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Stila, and Urban Decay. I'm fairly serious, you know.
So what's the trick? How does one know that say, a pure, snowy white eyeshadow, dusted with gold shimmer, is truly unnecessary? Where exactly do you draw the line? It helps to put the idea into a set of rules.
The entire stash consists of holy grails. Don't settle for less than perfection. This, of course, begs the next question. What is perfection? The answer is two-pronged.
The shade must be very complex, very unique. Otherwise, why waste the effort of smooshing your hoard into an organized thing of beauty? Each product is must be worth the effort. It's the least you can ask. In addition, the greater the complexity of a shade, the better suited it is to the task. That is, replacing countless others.
Perfection, in addition to complexity, must be versatile. Opt for products with finely-milled pigment particles, because it will then blend more easily and go on more smoothly. Blendability is key. Also, it should mix well with other colors in your stash. And despite the shade's complexity, you should feel comfortable wearing it everday, with anything. Versatility is key, and it means ease of use, ease of wear, and ability to work well with others. Social skills, if you will. ^_^
Lastly, try not to buy anything that's like something you already have. After all, the whole point to "versatility" and "complexity" is that you won't *need* those extras. No single shade should tread on the "territories" of the others.
It sounds terribly complicated, I know. But imagine if your stash was suddenly very sparse. You were stranded on a desert island, and you're only allowed a limited quantity. The point of these rules is to get as much use out of them asyou possibly can. That sounds like a strategy for saving money, and it is, but in this case, it's space you're trying to save.
So what kind of summation have I come to, after all of this long-windedness? Well, to be frank, none. The size of one's stash is an entirely personal thing. Who's to say what your holy grails might be? If you're paring down, you have to do it very thoughtfully. Throw away, no looking back, all the junk that's truly worthless. Put the things that are good enough, but are not up for repurchase, in close reach. Tread softly, for it is not an easy thing to do. But persevere, it takes time and patience.
I've yet to reach the end of this myself. That, I imagine, is what makes it fun. Tuesday, February 18, 2003 »0 comments
Faking Perfect Skin
Here are five ways to apply "face stuff" (ie. concealer, foundation, powder) without using the whole arsenal of "face stuff" (concealer, foundation, powder).
Tinted Moisturizer or Sheer Foundation: whether you mix your own (a little foundation mixed with moisturizer) or buy one premade (like Laura Mercier's or Prescriptives Traceless), tinied moisturizer gives you a sheer veil of coverage that evens out but doesn't hide your skin. The sheer coverage means that you won't have to worry about finding a perfect match, because an off color will be more forgiving, and renders blending a quick, easy ordeal.
Powder Foundation: if you have oily skin and balk at the idea of applying more moisturizer, then try a powder foundation. Some excellent ones are: Aveda Dual Base Minus Oil, Neutrogena Healthy Defense. None of these go on heavy, cakey or powdery, just light and natural. It's even easier to apply than tinted moisturizer, and the Neutrogena has full-spectrum protection.
Sheer Gel-Cream: just a step up from tinted moisturizer; whether you like one with a dewy finish like Chantecaille Real Skin or Vincent Longo WAter Canvas with a relatively matter finish, it has all the good things about tinted moisturizer (won't cut out your skin's inner glow) but with more coverage that easier to apply selectively.
Cream Foundation: wait... a cream foundation? Sure. The trick is to use a teeny tiny amount, with a formula that blends well and apply selectively. Just dot on problem areas and blend. Use it like a concealer, but one that functions as foundation as well. It's a favorite method of many makeup artists (I believe Kevyn Aucoin and Sonia Kashuk are just a couple examples). What to keep in mind: remember that the product should be blendable, not a heavy, greasy, cakey mess like the cream foundation of yore. You can use either a stick cream foundation, or a more liquid cream foundation in a jar. Good products to investigate: Estée Lauder Minute Makeup, L'Oréal QuickStick (good for oily skin), Sue Devitt Triple C-Weed Whipped Foundation, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer.
Concealer & Powder: These other four methods are simple, easy. Two to three minutes tops. This, however, may not be, but if you take the time, master the technique, it's guaranteed goddess. Take a good quality concealer, like the infamous Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage (tricky, but effective) and dust on a layer of loose powder (T. LeClerc, Prescriptives Magic) to set. It's labor-intensive, and you have to know how it works, but for special occasions, it worth it. You'll get the kind of flawlessness that you only see in magazines, without layers of product. Wednesday, November 20, 2002 »0 comments
Universal Appeal
It all began with Benetint. A product first designed for strippers, to tint their nipples so that they would be more seductive. Most people, of course, just dab this liquid on their lips and cheeks. It's a rose-scented liquid, red in color and sheer in application. And it's spawned off any number of copycats, first in the selfsame liquid form, then as gels, creams, liquid-gels, jellies, balms, felt-tip pens, just about everything. For example: Tarte Flush Cheek Stain, Philosophy the Supernatural, Origins Pinch Your Cheeks, Paula Dorf Candy Apple Cheek Color Cream, MAC Cheek Jelly, L'Oréal Rouge Gel blush, Stila Rose Convertible Color. My personal favorite of this trend is L'Occitane Teinte Baume, an afforable $12. It comes in a discreet, apothecary-like tin, teeny enough to slip into a pocket. Inside is this lovely creamy smelling (the shea butter) balm with the perfect consistency: not too waxy, not too sheer, not too sticky. In fact, it blends very easily and smoothly. On pale, translucent skin it's romantic, under freckles, absolutely delicious, on dark skin, deeply alluring, on tanned skin, extremely flattering. The reason behind its success is that it mimics the natural effect of a true blush, a rush of blood to the skin. It's a soft berry, but it's sheer, and tempered with muting agents like brown, so it's not garish. Think of it as Benetint in a hopelessly chic tin... perfect on any complexion, but easy enough for the palest of the pale to manipulate. Dab softly for a hint of flush, or rub vigorously for a fevered ice skater's cheeks. If, however, you are leery of cream, liquid, or gel blushes, or just prefer powder blushes, allow me to suggest Nars Desire, which is a bright, graish pink in the pot, but affects the same, bloodrush glow. It's my favorite blush, in fact, and I can't imagine life without it.
I'm terrible when it comes to recommending lip colors, at least compared to my skill with eye colors. But two products reside in my mind as beautiful colors that would work on almost anyone. Stila Blush Lip Shine is a jazzy, yet subdued pink glimmer. Touched with brown, tempered with soft shimmer. Chic and sophisticated, but still sweet, very innocent. It's like Jane's Loco Cocoa lipstick, but reincarnated into a gloss (it's a more muted). A cute and perfect gift to get for a cosmetic inept—it's that easy to wear. If you prefer lipstick, however, MAC O is the most perfectly universal color out there. There are very few it doesn't look smashing on. I could describe, say that it's a plum-rose-berry-red with bronze-and-gold frost, but a description is essentially meaningless for O. It morphs to look different on every complexion. On me, it's more a muted rose-plum with gold shimmer—I apply it sheer like a stain.
And here, just as a tribute, since you can't get it anymore, Jane Loco Cocoa Lipstick. Speaking of, here is the one, the original, muted rose iridescence, infused with hints of peach and plum. A true chameleon of a shade, shift its allure with any gloss or lip pencil. Even differring application methods reveal new sides to it. A special, unique shade, yet quiet enough for everyday wear.
Revlon Brown Suede Softstroke Powderliner, an everyday chocolate, dusted with a hint of amber shimmer. What makes this special is that it glides on lids like silk, no tugging whatsoever. Easiest pencil liner to use, ever. A no brainer color that isn't boring, because it got the tinest little kick to it. It can be a bit tough to locate, however, so try L'Oréal's Wear Infinité pencil in Brown Suede, which is the same shade under the same name.
Nars All About Eve (great movie) eyeshadow duo is the shadow to go for if you just don't have a clue. THE universal eyeshadow color, that is, a champagne. Think beige with shimmer, and you've got a champagne. It comes in many incarnations, from a very pale, whispering hue (Stila Starlight), to a glittery explosion (Urban Decay Midnight Cowboy), to a pinkish-peachy frost (Stila Kitten), to an antiqued sparkler (MAC Magrittes Paint). All About Eve, here, has a soft, slightly peachy medium-light color, and a more neutral, lighter one. It's as basic as they get. The shimmer isn't too harsh; it's got just the right amount of substance, a little bit of brown depth, to be universal. It looks flattering on any lid, because it's so close to the natural shade of skin.
Another discontinued product, Jane Purple Heart Eyeshadow. It's the color... bold, daring purple shimmer in the pot, quiet grayish-violet iridescence on. No product ever truly compares to its unexpected complexity, but a similar effect can be had from Prescriptives Fig Softlining Pencil. It's the shade to slip into for smoky, sultry eyes. A light line (using an eyeliner brush) is natural enough for day wear, but a heavier hand will yield to the temptress within. Enough gray to be neutral, but the violet, which flatters any eye color, gives it a little kick.
I have to admit, green is not a color I deem universal. But Urban Decay Urb eye shadow is such a soft, celadon green that it would flatter anyone. And if you don't like the gold microglitter (it's very subtle) imbedded in it, Paula Dorf has a color just like it, sans glitter, Enchant. The green is so muted, and so demure, no one need fear it. It's especially flattering on brown eyes. But if you insist on a more natural color, try Nars Ashes to Ashes, which goes on sheerer than it appears. It's a softly luminescent brown, somehow warm and cool at the same time. Looks stunning on blue eyes, but is overall gorgeousness on everyone. Sunday, October 27, 2002 »0 comments
Sunkissed
I'm hoping your tan is fake, as there's nothing as damaging to the skin as the sun. You must must must wear sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher, broad spectrum) at all times. But suppose you do have a tan (it's unavoidable if you spend enough time outside) or at a least a faux one. Can you put on the same type of makeup on tanned skin as you would on wintery pale, cadaver-esque skin? Well, of course you can, but here are some suggestions that might suit better.
When you're tan, your overall coloring (that is to say, the collective sum of hair color, eye color, and skin color) has more intensity, as opposed to untanned skin. So you need less makeup, because you don't require as much color. Too much makeup can look dated, heavy and chalky (this is true at any time, but moreso on tanned skin). What you need is not more makeup, but rather, brighter shades, so makeup doesn't look washed out on your skin. Also look for sheer, blendable textures that meld into your skin.
Tan, healthy-looking skin, usually requires very little makeup. If you are still a little pale, you can sweep a bronzer where the light would hit it. Creams work well, because when blended, they look like second skin, but choose a shade that doesn't have too much orange or red. Bobbi Brown makes wonderful bronzing sticks that look very natural. Guerlain makes the best powder version. Otherwise, keep it to a minimum: tinted moisturizer if you're dry or a light flurry of powder for the more oil-prone. A tawny-mauve blush, like Versace Glam Touch Blush, or Nars Malibu Multiple will affect flushed skin, but is subdued enough to go well with a tan. Rub a bit all over, like a bronzer, and you need almost nothing else, it complements and highlights tan skin so well. A highlighter or shimmery blush, like Benefit High Beam or Nars Orgasm Blush, give you skin healthy sheen, but skip them if you tend to be oily. Highlighters are better as an evening option, to layer over your daytime blush or bronzer for an extra touch.
Put your eyeliner away, and switch to a waterproof mascara (Max Factor 2000 Calorie Aqua Lash is quite indelible, as is Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof). Your skin is the centerpiece, and you don't want to detract too much attention away from it. The same goes for lips. You want sheer shades that are subtle and understated, preferably with a slight sheen. Glosses work fine. Use richer, warm, golden shades that look more convincingly natural than cooler, paler shades. Burnished roses, sunkissed peaches, soft corals, watery tangerines and pinks, subtle fawns, sheer bronzes and golds, and if you're dark enough, soft chocolates and muted plums. If you want color, corals and soft greens are good venues during summer. Light blues, also, are best worn in summer, rather than other seasons.
Some shades: Versace Glam Touch Blush [$30] Nars Multiples: Copacabana, South Beach, Malibu, Cannes, Mustique... [$33] (all of them, really) Guerlain Terracotta Bronzing Powder [$32.50] Bobbi Brown Bronzing Stick [$28] MAC Blot Powder [$14.50] (to keep shine away) Stila Eye Glaze [$24] (soft, lots of pretty summer shades) Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Ink Eyeliner [$18] (if you insist upon eyeliner, this one won't meander) MAC Lychee Luxe Lipglass [$12.50] (most wearable coral out there) Maybelline Wet Shine Lipstick [$6~7] (they have lots of summery shades) Stila Eyeshadows: Shell, Sun, Kiwi, Popova Eyeshadows L'Oreal Moonglow QuickStick Face & Body Blush Chantecaille Aurora and Hibiscus Lipsticks
For night, you may decide to add a little more to the eyes, a pastel near white shadow (shimmery white that "flash" another color) on the lids would look stark by day, but adventurous by night. The Body Shop (limited edition),Trucco, Christian Dior, Nars, and Shiseido all have a few. Just keep it simple. Instead of white, of course, any pastel shade would work. Mint green, sky blue, lilac, lemon yellow. A heavy wash on the lids, with just gloss and mascara, looks surprisingly chic. You don't need to add much, the very paleness of your shadow will probably provide enough contrast to be a legitimate evening look. Thursday, April 18, 2002 »0 comments
Bare Necessities
Obsession with cosmetics aside, my vanity drawer looks like a wasteland. Granted, compared to most of my friends, I have lots of makeup, but for a cosmetics-obsessed gal like me, I'm excessively spartan. I don't own 20 Stila eyeshadows, or 50 lipsticks (heck, I don't even own 20 or even 15), nor do I have a variety of foundation "duds"—stuff that's just a little wrong for me. Not only that, I'm scrupulously minimal. I'm referred to as a girl "who doesn't wear makeup". Of course, I do, but nonetheless, most are suprised to learn I'm totally obsessed with cosmetics. Some women that I know get up an extra hour-and-a-half early, to blowdry their hair, apply a full face of makeup (foundation, eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, teezing brows, lipstick, lipliner, the works) and walk out perfect, polished and stylish with nary a chip in their manicure. Those women are dedicated souls. The vast majority of us are not. They put on some foundation, maybe mascara and lipstick, perhaps a little eyeshadow and blush if they're motivated.
I read an article recently in a magazine called Real Simple, and they had a lovely little artical on five minute makeup. It was a little stripped down and bare, but I found myself fascinated. Here is my spin.
Even Out Your Skin: The most important thing, of course, is to know what you need.
Are you just a little blotchy? Then a tinted moisturizer or a sheer foundation (same thing, really) is probably all you need. If you're oily, then a light dusting of tinted loose powder, instead. You might even be able to get away with a skin illuminating moisturizer, like Prescriptives Vibrant.
Suppose you had the opposite problem, with basically clear skin, but with a few trouble spots? A concealer will do wonders, just remember to set the concealer with translucent powder to ensure longevity.
But for most of us, a stick foundation is optimal for simple, quick makeup, not to mention its versatility. A stick foundation can be blended out into a sheer foundation, or dabbed on for concealer-like coverage. The key is to find a product that blends well, blends quickly. For oily skin, L'Oreal QuickStick is light, and non-greasy. For any other skin type, Estee Lauder's Minute Makeup is truly top of the line.
Define Your Eyes: The trick is to go with one option, instead of piling everything together.
To start off, curl your eyelashes and add a coat of mascara. It opens up your eyes, and it might just be the only thing you do to them, if you felt like it. A volumizing mascara in an exciting color, like L'Oreal Voluminous in Black Cherry, is subtle, yet daring, completely capable of holdings its own. From mascara-ed lashes, you can go one of three ways.
A wash. It's all a matter of personal style, whether you go natural with champagne, sophisticated with taupe or grey, feminine with lavender or rose, or daring with lime or cerulean. Cream shadows are preferable, as they are much quicker in application. Benfit, Stila, and MAC all make excellent cream shadows. To check out: Benefit Have Her Home By Creaseless Cream Shadow (a surprisingly flattering green shimmer), MAC Yogurt Eyeshadow (milky pink-white with touch of beige), Stila Kitten Eyeshadow (pink-peach champagne frost), MAC Shale Eyeshadow (lavender-grey shimmer), and Nars Ashes to Ashes Eyeshadow (luminescent brown).
Or, add some depth to the eye with a crease. Nothing else, just mascara and crease. Putting in a crease color in a complicated eyeshadow structure is reminiscent of the 80s' era of massive eye makeup, but crease color alone, is almost... clean.
Or, just smudge some eyeliner between your lashes. It adds definition, emphasizes eye shape. Choose a pencil that goes on easily, like MAC Eye Kohls.
The Lips and Cheeks: The final touch...
If your eyes are quiet, you can pile on some intense blush, like MAC Revenge. Or, go chic but simple with red lipstick.
But if your eyes are vivid, go with subtle gloss like Nars Sweet Dreams Lip Gloss, and a soft, inconspicuous, glowing color like MAC Angel.
And yet another option, is bronzer. Dusted all over—cheekbones, forehead, the bridge of your nose. Just to liven up washed out skin.
But you can't go wrong with no-fail naturals, like Cargo Topeka Blush and Clinique Black Honey Almost Lipstick. They'll match everything. Friday, September 14, 2001 »0 comments
